SLING - SingLe INtent Grinder.

Here are the instructions for assembling the SLING grinder kit.  Up until a certain point, the steps for assembling the wheel, flat, and combo are the same.  I will show all the steps for the flat and the combo first, and then show the differences for the wheel.

When assembling this kit, use either lock washers or thread lock to make sure nothing vibrates loose.  I would recommend assembling the whole kit first and then go back and lock in everything.

The order of assembly can change, you don't need to follow this exactly step by step.  There are some orders that won't work, but you will notice that if you try them.  I built these from the bottom up and that's how these instructions are written.

First, attach the motor to the main upright.  

Next slide the tab into the cutout in the base.  Unlike the GIB 2.0, this doesn't have anything bolting the upright to the base, so the motor has to have a base mount.

These bolts secure the motor to the base plate.  On my workbench, I drilled four holes so that the base sites flat.  On the the standard that I've mounted my SLING grinders to, I drilled relief holes on one, and just made a frame from tubing for another.  Whichever way you make clearance for these bolt heads will work.

Next, attach the pivot arm supports.

The pivot arm goes inbetween the supports.  I'm using a 1/2" bolt here.  If the arm is pivoting on threads, they will eventually flatten.  It took a long time on my first grinder for this to happen, but it can happen.  

There are a few options here.  Use a bolt and when the threads start to flatten, replace it.  Use a longer bolt than needed that has a flat, unthreaded portion.  You might have to add washers on the other side to get proper clamping.  The best option is a shoulder bolt.  You an get these from MSC or Enco.  My local ACE hardware stores have them and I'd imagine Fastenal does as well.  

Next mount the tension spring.  The part number from McMaster Carr is 9416k24.  I would recommend 40# minimum.  

Here is the layout for drilling the idler supports.  I will use this piece as a template and drill through a little bit to mark it.  Then I'll take the pieces and clamp them in a vice and drill them out.  You can either drill them for clearance for a 1/4-20 bolt and put a nut on one side or  you can drill these and tap them for 1/4-20 instead.

The hole circled in red needs to be tapped for 1/4-20.  This is where you adjust the tracking.

Hole the idler block for the idler/tensioner in a vice.  DO NOT drill it out holding it by hand.  Drill this for clearance for 1/4-20 bolt.  I prefer to drill ream it.  I'll drill it at around .234 (Letter A drill bit or 15/64) and then drill it out with a 1/4". This leaves a nicer  hole.

Here the hole is drilled and the center hole is tapped with 1/2-13.  

Bolt the pivot arm to the idler assembly.  The two spacers are provided.  Depending on your set and what wheels used, you may or may not need both of these spacers.

And from the other side.  You can also see the bolt I threw in there to show where the adjustment for tracking is.

These bolts were a little too long.  When I go to thread lock this together, I'll cut them off flush.

Here is the idler assembly.  Note the orientation of the heads of the bolts for the idler support.  If they aren't oriented this way, they interfer with the movement of the block.  If you tapped the support holes instead, this isn't a concern.

And a view from the backside.

Time to add the handle.

Up until this point, the steps are basically the same for all models of the SLING grinder.  The main upright will look a little different between the three, but there are only three mounting holes that the pivot arm supports will fit, and only two mounting holes for the tension spring.

The plate the idler assembly mounts to is also a little different.  I'll show it a little further down with the wheel SLING differences.

Mount the platen for the flat or the combo.  The brackets have a short side and a longer side.  The longer side goes against the upright and the shorter one to the platen.  All holes pictured are tapped with 1/4-20 threads.  

Do not threadlock these (although lock washers are ok) as you will adjust this from time to time.   If you ever replace the platen, resurface the platen, or change wheel diameter, this will need adjusting.  

The front view of the platen.  Notice the bolts do not go all the way through.  I would also round the top and bottom edge.  This prevents the belts from catching and breaking.  I also radius the sides.